Letter from Atlantia November 2011

The wind from Darwin, with its termite castles, was right on the stern all the way to Kupang in Indonesia.

Atlantia does not sail well with the wind right aft and so we tried to reach, gybe and reach, which didn't work without the motor on either, so we contented ourselves with motoring dead down wind. The whole Indonesian Rally of about 100 boats had left Darwin as a flotilla with all flags flying and some with multicloured spinnakers.

We had an uneventful voyage of three days and two nights and 700 miles, although we did pass about twenty feet from a large fishing buoy attached by a net to a sea going fishing boat about 200 yards away (a cable). Shades of things to come in the whole of Indonesia. We reached Kupang anchorage under sail, since the filter on the engine blocked and the engine failed, it was all fairly easy though and we dropped anchor off the beach that Captain Bligh reached after his epic voyage in an open boat, following the mutiny on the Bounty.

We could just imagine them pulling the boat onto the shore, having passed 5000 miles of canibal infested islands and shark infested seas, liberally dotted and crossed by coral reefs.

They probably needed a stretch, as indeed we did, but only after the Customs, Immigration and Quarantine people had all come on board from a minute rubber dinghy.

They were very pleasant but wanted a list of medicines in our medicine chest. Margaret duly obliged. They were very kind and the Quarantine men and their shore based lady doctor adopted us for our stay in Kupang, taking us around the town and even obtaining 60 litres of subsidized fuel for us from the petrol station, since regrettably none of Indonesia is blessed with a fuel dock for yachts or even a dock to tie up to, anchoring being the only option in Indonesia, with the attendant jerry cans for fuel being lugged from the petrol stations. On one occasion at Labuan Bajo, Will took his three jerry cans on a motorbike to collect fuel. His driver was called 'Superman' which indeed he proved on the return journey.

Although it was pleasant to reach land and Indonesia, Kupang was a little disappointing. The beach was rather littered since the sea appears the repository for most Indonesian rubbish, and on one occasion in Larantuka, The Regent had to order the beach cleaned by over 100 people before we could land.

Rubbish aside, the people were all very friendly and welcoming and we were glad to take some of the clothes we had bought from a thrift shop in Australia to a Roman Catholic Orphanage in Kupang, with bright and cheerful occupants.

Other clothing was given to visiting children in diverse anchorages. It was good to see them trying on the clothes on their way to shore.

Baby clothes were also given to a baby in North Lombok.

We were entertained to a lavish banquet with local dancers and the playing of the Sasando which is made in the region. It sounds a little like a harp and is made of cat gut strings surrounding a bamboo shaft with a banana leaf sound reflection board.

We also saw how they climbed palm trees to collect palm nut juice for making into wine and fermenting into Arak ( a rather powerful liquor)

From Kupang we sailed overnight in convoy to Alors which was a good calm anchorage near the head of a loch although rather restricted in space for the yachts since space had to be left for the local boats to leave the dock in safety.

In fact rather too much room was allocated to the local boats and rather too little to the yachts. The Indonesians are good seamen generally, and some of the rally fleet perhaps a little inexperienced. Only one yacht landed on the reef on that occasion, but the coral took its toll a number of other times, some skippers relying too much on their chart plotter rather than sight and depth sounder. The charts in Indonesia can have half a mile or more of inaccuracy. Fortunately no yachts came to real grief and all were pulled off, usually after a tide leaning over on a shelf. Atlantia fortunately missed the indignity of a tow, throughout Indonesia.

Atlantia then motor sailed to Lembata and Larantuka, anchoring off some beautiful bays and enormous, sometimes live, volcanoes.

At Larantuka we watched Bull Racing and Margaret was towed behind two bulls on a sledge.

Everywhere we went we were treated to feasts and dancing and usually a tour in the local bus. One such bus in Riung, a very sheltered anchorage behind reefs, was a covered lorry with wooden bench seats across the back.

The road condition and the shock absorbers were something to be desired, although the scenery was indeed beautiful and the visited village most interesting in its architecture.

On most tours we were taken to a 'local' village to be welcomed by the villagers and a dance. The welcome usually consisted of some pretty girls offering betel nuts and lime for chewing, or cigarettes made from the local tobacco wrapped in a bark skin. Having forsaken cigarettes some time ago Will took the betel nut. It was very sour and numbed the mouth. Fortunately it didn't turn red as the habitual chewer finds, nor did it rot the teeth as often seems to be the consequence of betel nut addiction.

One of the tricks of anchoring in Indonesia is to find a spot as far away from the local mosque as possible since being awoken by loud speakers calling us to prayer at 04.30 in the morning was not always appealing.

We were impressed by the religious tolerance in Indonesia which, although officially a Muslim Country also has Roman Catholics, Protestants, Hindus, Buddhists, Taoists, and probably others.

On the surface they all seem to get on well together. It was the Muslim time of Ramadan when we visited but the local people didn't seem too phased or serious about it. Some still drank water during the day and threw the empty water bottles out of the coach door to litter the kerbside! We were delighted on some of the tours to see coffee trees, cocoa trees, cashew nut orchards (one cashew nut per fruit!)

pepper vines, vanilla vines, orange trees, banana trees, mango trees, rice paddy fields and jungle!

We visited Buddhist Temples (Chinese Buddhists!), Hindu Temples, Mosques, and Churches, most admittedly viewed from the outside although the Chinese Buddhist temple was most elaborate inside as well.

The views from the buses were usually beautiful with high mountains beside quite a calm sea. In the villages we were permitted to see some wonderful weaving which ranged in styles from a rather smudged mauve and tight ochre weave to a sharp orange and black.

Almost everywhere we went there was an official dinner, scarf presenting ceremony and dancing. On one occasion Margaret and Will had to dress in traditional costume for the dinner. Dressing took three hours including makeup! Some said they looked quite smart!

At Labuan Bajo Indonesia started to become more civilized. There was slightly less rubbish in the water and there was a choice of decent restaurants, something that was very scarce previously.

Labuan Bajo is the centre for mini traditional cruise ships leaving for the Kimodo Islands, famous in this part of the world for its snorkeling, diving and wildlife. On arrival at Labuan Bajo we felt as the sailors of 150 years ago must have felt, seeing the local trading sailing ships at anchor in the roadstead. It was a stirring sight to see so many masts with sails bent onto spars.

We duly set sail to see the Komodo Dragons on the Island of Rincah. Not only did we see the famous dragons (no wings regrettably) but we saw wild monkeys, deer, wild pigs and water buffalo as well as six lobsters when snorkeling on a beautiful coral reef.

We sailed to a beautiful anchorage just north of Komodo Island and not only did we have a wonderful snorkel looking at a myriad of reef fish, sponges and coral,

but also swam alongside manta rays that came in to the bay. At one point Margaret thought she was going to be swallowed by one coming straight towards her, but fortunately it dived at the last minute!

Bali was a wonderful stop and we availed ourselves of a bath in the hot springs, almost as plush as similar Roman baths, although with naturally warm water.

We also talked to the Grand Daughter of a Rajah at a former Royal Palace (she was most pleasant and gracious) and filled up with fresh water and some rather dubiously contaminated fuel.

In Bali we were entertained to some wonderful dancing displays.

Regrettably Margaret was called back to Scotland at this point since her Mother was very ill, but we are delighted to say a month later that she is well on the road to recovery. Will was fortunate to be lent two crew from Nae Hassle, a Beneteau belonging to Colin and Milin. Colin is from Scotland and Milin from Malaysia and Will was very grateful for their help. The crew, Rob and Karen, were from Ipswich in Australia and were very good keeping an excellent beady eyed watch, with Karen cooking tasty meals and Rob more than taking the burden of fuel and water filling.

It was especially necessary in the following few weeks to keep a good eye out on the two overnight passages and even during the day since the water was littered with canoes, nets, fish pots, floating platforms, fixed fishing platforms, fishing boats and enormously wide squid boats which also caught whitebait and other small fry.

Rob was lucky enough to catch 3 wahoo which provided at least two dinner parties.

Will, Rob and Karen visited Kumai in what used to be called Borneo. Kumai is a dirty dusty dry (in all senses) town, and should most certainly be missed if you are ever that way. There are only two points of interest at Kumai. Firstly it has a number of three and four storey buildings which look almost like sky scrapers from the water. Approaching them one sees there are no windows in the stories above ground level, only holes in the walls. This is because the upper stories are not for the use of humans at all, but for swifts and swallows to build their nests in. these are then taken to sell to the Chinese for birds nest soup.

The original birds nests are taken from white tailed swiftlets in caves in Indonesia. Apparently the cash crop was accidentally noted when a building was empty and the upper stories taken over by the birds. Since then a considerable number of ' bird hotels' s have been built, much to the profit of the local populace.

The second reason for a visit to Kumai is to take a local river boat to the Orangutan sanctuaries up the nearby river. Will took a three day trip with good companions Peter and Margie (Americans) from 'Peregrina' and Ken and Wendy (Canadians) from 'Cop Out'. The female Orangutans were very friendly and one wanted to take us by the hand, although the Kings of the tribes were extremely large and fierce.

They were semi wild and certainly made an impression with their ability to communicate and their sad expressions.

We slept on the deck of the boat under mosquito nets on rather lumpy mattresses, but were very well looked after by crew, guide and excellent cook. Most meals had a deal of prawns and chicken with rice but very nicely made up in a different way each day.

We saw three fresh water crocodiles, but they were very small. We were warned not to swim in the river though, since there are apparently some large ones there as well.

The crocodiles feed on the local proboscis monkeys.

We departed Kumai with some relief but the Indonesian fuel again took its toll of the fuel filters on the way to Belitong, on the first night stopping the engine just as we were approaching more fishing boats. They must have wondered what we were doing, for an hour sailing around in circles.

The final official days were at Belitong beach and we were well received there with an interesting traditional lunch at a traditional manor house all wood and stilts. At the official dinner the fleet was supposed to be represented by ten people to be presented to the President of Indonesia. After a ballot, Will appeared to be one of the ten chosen and after receiving an embossed invitation and buying the last XXXL batique local lined shirt in the neighbourhood, he was all ready to do his duty. Regrettably the Indonesian President took fright at the thought of meeting a diverse crowd of yachties and went off to an emergency Cabinet Meeting. The Vice President was supposed to represent him but only turned up at the dinner for ten minutes and had no intention of anything so low as an International Yachting Delegation, so no presentation there either.

Some two hundred fishing boats had given up a night's fishing to congregate for a sail past in honour of the President the following day but the Vice President , who obviously was not invited to the emergency Cabinet Meeting, only deigned to watch the first twenty fishing boats, all gailly dressed with flags, and then left, ten minutes after the start, surrounded by gun sycophants and armoured cars. We were told that Indonesia is now a Democracy but Will is unsure who the local fishermen will vote for next time there is a Presidential Election.

Certainly the manners of those in charge seems to be in direct contravention to the underlings who are very polite and always eager to please.

It was a slightly disappointing end to a trip that had been full of colourful delightful people and vistas of huge mountains and seas populated with fishing boats and friendly fishermen.

Will booked out of Belitong which was a good anchorage sheltered by rocks that echoed those in the British Virgin Islands. The next five dayd were all day hops to Malaysia and once again Atlantia crossed the Equator, this time from South to North. It was Rob and Karen's first time sailing across the Equator but we had little ceremony except a toast to Neptune in homemade alcoholic ginger beer with Neptune getting his share as well, just so he will be kind to Atlantia in the future.

Atlantia sailed up past the pretty Northern Indonesian Islands and across the very busy shipping channel south of Singapore. As Will said, that was a doddle compared to finding the entrance to the Strait of Johor on the west side of Singapore Island. Regrettably they had built the island out another four miles enclosing a ship anchorage since Atlantia's charts were compiled. Thus after a detour of some eight miles Atlantia eventually found herself around the new sea wall and under the bridge linking Malaysia with Singapore.

Margaret flew into Singapore three days ago and we are now off on another Rally to Langkowi. We look forward to more dancing and some excellent Malaysian food on the way up through the Malacca Straits to the borders of Thailand. Will write more often in the future,

Love Atlantia